Day 1 Thursday 17th July 2014
After 5 hours of driving, we arrived in Dover to get the ferry. Arrived in Calais at 4pm, the weather beautiful and sunny all the way. Form Calais we went to Boulogne and Abbeville, and stayed the first night in an Aire de Camping at
Forges Les Eaux. It was a hard standing so we could not put the awning up, but we managed to transform the van into a mobile B&B and got some rest.
https://www.aire-service-camping-car-panoramique.fr/seine-maritime/76-forges-les-eaux
Day 2 - Friday 18th July 2014
We left the aire early in the morning and headed towards Lyons-la-Foret. We have been here before on a previous trip to France and it is a beautiful town which has extra meaning for us, as our family is supposed to have come from here many centuries ago. It was already hot when we arrived at 9.45, just in time for a coffee in the local café.
http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/en/lyons-la-foret
From here our route followed Vernon, Pacy, Ivry, Anet (beautiful chateaux here), Dreux, Chartres, Orleans, Chateauneuf sur Loire, Gien, finally arriving in the early evening at Cosne-Cours-Sur-Loire. We stayed at the Camping de L'Ile, which looked promising from the write up in the camping book - right on the banks of the Loire. It was near the river, but there was no beach there from which to bathe in the river. The weather was very hot and windy and in fact on the journey down, we passed a temperature sign in a small town which said 44 degrees! No wonder we were feeling hot in the van! (Memo- maybe need to get fan before next summer trip?) The site has lots of space and shady trees and also lots of wasps everywhere...it also cost 31 euros for the night and it really did not have the facilities to justify that, but when on the move you can't really be to choosy. It did at least have wifi, if you sat near the café, so we were able to facetime home :)
Day 3 Saturday 19th July 2014
We left Cosne at 10.15 - even if you get up early it takes ages to put the awning and everything else away. From Cosne we went to Nevers and then had a fuel stop at Varenne. There were lots of quintessential French roads to drive along. It was a hot 37 degrees!
From Varennes, we went to Moulins, St Pourcain, Gannat and Clermont Ferrand. We went on the autoroute some of the way, it was hilly! Evangeline had a few splutters but we got to Massiac where we spent the night at Camping L'Alagnon ( which is the camping municipal and very reasonable).
It cost only 12E for campervans and that included a free breakfast! It was a quiet site with a river running through it, and believe it or not the river was too noisy to camp by! There was also a swimming pool that you could use - unfortunately we were too late and it was just closing! The guy in charge was great, really friendly and helpful. We put the awning up to sleep in, as we really sleep better in it than in the van. It always seems to take an age to put up though and as you can see we did not attach the awning to the van. We didn't really do this unless we were staying more than one night.
Day 4 Sunday 20th July 2014
There were big storms overnight with thunder and lightning, so we did not get a lot of sleep. We were up early and packed away the wet awning before going for our free breakfast of coffee and croissants. From Massiac we went to St Flour where we got on the autoroute to Marvejols and then on to the Millau Bridge. There is a toll to pay of 13.70E but the views are great and there is a very good visitors' centre so we stayed an hour and a half and walked up to the top of the hill. I wanted to go here as it always looked so amazing on Mr Bean's Holiday DVD! I think his weather was a bit better though as it started to rain whilst we were there :(
So from Millau we rejoined the motorway, but from 3pm it started raining hard. It was scary driving down the hills with zero vision even at 60mph max! I for one was very glad to get to the bottom! So next Montpellier, Nimes and along the Carmargue coast towards Arles, all in very heavy rain. It was so bad we were not keen on staying in the van or awning, so we stopped off at McDonalds for the free wifi, to see if we could find somewhere cheap to spend the night. Following Mr Bean again we were keen to go to Cavaillon as that was where the market scene was filmed. There was an Etap hotel there, so we prebooked and headed off again. As we got closer we saw lots of barriers and police cars and we realised that we had just missed the Tour de France, which had passed through 3 hours before! The rain stopped and we had a wander through the town.
Day 5 Monday 21st July 2014 The Lavender Trail
Today we set off on the Lavender Trail. From Cavaillon we went to Pernes les Fontaines, Carpentras, Mazan and then drove through the Gorges de Nesques. The road was very bendy and narrow and was full of cyclists even though it was literally cycling up a mountain!!
As we approached the town of Sault, we saw more and more fields of beautiful lavender and poppies.
There were also lost of bees flying around and we had to wind our windows up, unfortunately a few met a squishy end on the windscreen :( We stopped at a farm just outside the town and bought a few lavender goodies. I must add here, that the lady in the shop was very grumpy and really didn't seem to want us there! Or maybe she was just having a bad day...
We stopped in Sault which is high up and has a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape. It is a very picturesque town with very traditional French shops.
We had crepes (much nicer lady, who did want us there!) then strolled around the town admiring the views
Next we headed off through yet more lavender fields towards our next destination on the coast, where we were planning to stay for a week.
Our route went as follows; Forcalquier, Manosque, Vinon, Varages, Salernes, Draguignan, Le Muy, Roquebrune, Les Issambres. Between les Issambres and St Aygulf is a little beach called Gaillarde Plage and this is where we were staying at Au Paradis des campeurs
We had a very warm welcome and were given a personal tour of the campsite in a golf buggy! Good sized pitch with its own water supply and electric hook up so we set up camp and attached the awning. Weather hot, cloudy and humid, beautiful sunset.
Day 6 Tuesday 22nd July 2014
Today it was hot with clear blue sky. We finally had a day to relax, we explored the campsite and went to the little beach that we could access from the site without having to cross any roads - perfect!
Day 7 Wednesday 23rd July 2014
In the morning we went down to the little beach again and then to Frejus for necessary shopping. Then a short drive up the coast road to Cannes where we stopped en route for lunch.
Day 8 Thursday 24th July 2014
Years ago when I was in my teens, my family went camping in France and we stayed in a site in Gassin in the mountains. The beach that we used to go to was at Cavalaire and my memories of it are wonderful - warm shallow clear sea and endless fine white sands and the best bit was you could park right on the road by the beach! I also remembered that there was a campsite on this road and it seemed that this would be the perfect place for us to be. So we decided to investigate and see if there were any good campsites around or even if it was still there, for although we liked the site we were on, it was very busy and noisy, especially early in the morning and late at night. It was yet another beautiful day and we decided to leave early and have breakfast on the way.
Cavalaire had changed so much and was not so good as I had remembered. Where had it all gone?? Or had I remembered somewhere else? Whatever, it did not seem the right place to go to. We went to the beach at Le Lavandou instead
and then stopped for ice cream in Sainte Maxime on the way back. Sainte Maxime is a very nice town, but quite busy with tourists.
33 degrees today! Spent the rest of the day relaxing back at the campsite.
Day 9 Friday 25th July 2014
So today was not so good we went to La Gaillarde beach and then it rained!! How could it? Quick dash back to the van. Then the sun came out and it was warm again so back to the beach. Then it rained again and there was thunder and lightning, so no more venturing out today.
Day 10 Saturday 26th July 2014
We were awoken today at 5.45 am by very noisy children whose family were packing up and leaving... so as we were up early we decided to make the most of it and head to Monte Carlo via Cannes and Nice. S had always wanted to go there and see the F1 circuit and drive around it if at all possible. We went part of the way on the autoroute and then took the very scenic coast road.
We had lunch at a small café beside the café and then had a stroll around the town.
It really is an impressive place. In Casino Square, as well as up market casinos with fast cars parked out front, there is a mirrored sculpture.
The shops look exclusive and expensive! It is quite stunning though to see these buildings against a backdrop of sheer rocks and mountains.
After our wander, S took Evangeline (or Evangeline took S?) on a T25 version of the Formula 1 circuit and it only took 8 minutes!! I made a video of it so maybe I can somehow put a copy of it here, it makes entertaining viewing!
We headed back to base and that evening we went to the night market in Sainte Maxime
Day 11 Sunday 27th July 2014
Oh No! We were woken up by an almighty explosion at 1.30 am. I really thought a bomb had gone off!! But no, wedding fireworks on the beach, of course! Would have been good to have been pre warned about this. So feeling tired we lazed on the beach in the morning and after lunch went to walk around Sainte Maxime again as it is a very nice little town. After tea we started packing and tomorrow morning we are leaving. We said at the time that we would not miss this place, not enough shade on the plot and very hot, and too noisy, but little did we know there was worse to come!
Day 12 Monday 28th July 2014
Today we set off for Argeles sur Mer. We went from Les Issambres, Ste maxime, Aix, Arles, Nimes, Montpellier, Beziers, Narbonne, Perpignan and finally Argeles. The journey took ages (about 7 hours) and when we reached Aix en Provence the sun disappeared and from then on cloudy. The campsite seemed ok at first look, large pitch and lots of shade, we had prebooked and paid a deposit
They did not speak any English but they seemed to understand me. We knew it was a basic "French" site but we were looking for something cheap and within walking distance of the beach. So, we walked into the town and were somewhat shocked by the number of people and tacky shops, it was like a French Blackpool :O It did not start well, firstly we sat down in a restaurant, we ordered, but after an hour we still had not received our main course, we asked and waited more, but nothing. S went to complain and then got into a heated argument with the manager and after some shouting we got up and left sans payer! Got back to the van and it was windy and raining with thunder and lightning most of the night. Definitely not a good start.
Day 13 Tuesday 29th July 2014
No rain this morning, but very windy and cloudy. We had an early trip to the launderette, as a mountain of washing to do and then went to the supermarket for supplies. In the afternoon we went to a pharmacy to try to find some medication for F's foot. He had had blisters which had popped and got a bit infected without us noticing. She could not give us anything, but did at least understand us, and advised that he could go in the sea but make sure his foot was dry afterwards and put antiseptic on. Anyway we did not go to the sea today, we walked along the beach and it looks idyllic, but there was no one on it!! This was because it was so windy!
Everyone (S) was very grumpy. This had not been helped by the atmosphere at the campsite. We were the only non French there and although the elderly campers spoke to us, everyone else more or less blanked us. It was not a welcoming place to be. After dinner we walked in to the old town of Argeles, away from the beach and it was like being in a different place, much nicer atmosphere than the beach...Music was playing in the square and we enjoyed the evening in an outside bar.
Day 14 Wednesday 30th July 2014
It was windy and noisy all night. There was a lot of animal noise from the small river which runs at the back of the site. S thought these were a type of frog, but they sounded like mini beasts shrieking and we later saw a number of water rats at a wider part of the river, so maybe it was these? We went to the beach but it was very windy. F liked the sea and went in it but it got deep quickly and the wind blew him down the beach quickly and away from us.
In the afternoon we want to Fort Elme. Still very very windy and warm 28 degrees. They told us at the Fort that it was the Tramontane wind (a bit like the Mistral) and can blow hard for quite a few days - not what we wanted to hear! Lovely views from Fort Elme.
Went on to Corriole and Port Vende, very picturesque harbour towns
Argeles is not the place for us. We need a good beach for F that he can go in safely. S went to see the site manager, but she was not very sympathetic and said that we would have to pay for the rest of the week even if we left. We did not think this very fair, especially as at the last site they said we could stay as little or as long as we liked! She said the beaches at the far end of the strip were better and we should look at these. So that evening that is what we did, we went all the way to St Cyprien but they were all the same and nothing seemed sheltered from that wind.
Day 15 Thursday 31st July 2014
The wind had dropped! We headed to the beach and the sea was much calmer, the beach was packed though. Stayed all morning,the afternoon was very hot so we stayed in the shade at the campsite. In the evening it was cooler and we went into town and visited the craft market. The wind stayed away too.
Day 16 Friday 1st August 2014
This morning we decided we had had enough of the unfriendly campsite, the nocturnal screeching and het unrelenting wind and left. Though we did pay, as I am just too honest and couldn't face being chased for payment back in the UK. We had always planned to visit Carcassonne, so headed for there via Perpignan and Narbonne. It was really hot, 33 degrees.
We were looking for a cheap hotel to stay in in Carcassonne, but they were all full so looking on the internet (Mcdonalds again!) we found one in a nearly town of Limoux-Chalabre, a triple room for only 50E! However when we got there ( in a violent thunderstorm!) the room was 72E, it would not be ready for 2 hours and we could not look at it! so we decided to go on to Quillan.
After a quick visit to the tourist office for free wifi we headed to the municipal campsite and set up camp in the pouring rain.
We went into the town centre to search for somewhere to eat but everything was closed except one small bar/bistro. However there was a fiesta planned for that evening and everything had been booked. While we were waiting in the downpour the event was cancelled, lucky for us!, and le patron managed to squeeze us onto a little table inside, where we ate wonderful provincial dishes and met some friendly "locals" (from the UK!) who had recently emigrated there! Steve and Shani;
Day 17 Saturday 2nd August 2014
We packed up in still wet Quillan and headed off to Carcassonne. It looks really impressive from the outside, but inside it was very commercialised, full of gift shops and restaurants.
From Carcassonne we drove to Mazamet, Castres, Albi and then towards Villefranche de Rouergue. It was a very scenic drive.
We were hoping to find somewhere to stay in Cordes sur Ciel as it looked such a nice little town
but the site there was full so we went on to Laguepie and stayed at the municipal which was on the banks of the river, 15E seemed good value.
Day 18 Sunday August 3rd 2014
Glad we were only here for one night, it was noisy and not so friendly! Our neighbour drove over our pitch and decimated our parasol with his car! S went to him and said "Monsieur,c 'est pour vous" after handing him the parasol! I'm not sure Monsieur quite understood the significance!
On recommendation from Shani and Steve, we decided to go to Argentat which is a small town in the Dordogne region. We left at 9am and got on the autoroute towards Brives, arriving at about 3pm. It was another scenic drive
After exploring the area around Argentat, we chose to stay at Camping L'Echo du malpas
The weather was nice and sunny and then just as we were putting the awning up there was rain and thunder and lightning!!
We discovered a couple of little problems with Evangeline over the past few days; the battery was losing its charge and it looked like it was a wire come loose on the alternator, the exhaust was very very noisy! Poor Evangeline sounded like a boy racer van...S found that the alternator was an easy fix, the exhaust not quite so. However, on a reconnaissance scout around the campsite, S met a friendly Belgian welder who was into car mechanics and he lent S tools and his expertise! We were a bit cross about the exhaust (which was a brand new system from Just Kampers, fortunately under guarantee) as it had snapped completely off!
Luckily for us, we can stay here as long as we want and it has a great swimming pool and slides!
Day 19 Monday 4th August 2014
We spent the day at the campsite. The weather alternated sunny and cloudy. With the help of Alain, the Belgian welder, S took the exhaust to a garage in town, where they let Alain weld it for free for us! So you see, there are some nice people around :) Van now all fixed so we can decide to stay or move on?
Day 20 Tuesday 5th August 2014
Today was hot and sunny so went to the pool and slides. F loved them even though the water was freezing!
Next a tour of the local surroundings, beautiful :)
and a stroll around Argentat
Day 21 Wednesday 6th August 2014
Due to the weather and our (my) desire to be near the sea, we left today for Royan, using the following route; Brives, Limoges, Angouleme, Cognac, Saintes and finally Royan.
On the way we made a small detour to Oradour-sur-Glane, read about it here;
It is a melancholy place which should never be forgotten
We drove around and around for ages but we could not find a campsite suitable that had free spaces :)
So tea in McDs (free wifi ;)) in Marennes and stayed at a Campanile Hotel in Saintes. It is good to have the occasional luxury of a real bed and a bath!!
Day 22 Thursday August 7th 2014
Left Saintes and went to Fouras. Weather wet and windy - how did that happen? Heading north for chateaux and better weather? Niort, Parthenay, Thouars, Saumur. Found a site in Saumur on an island with a view of the chateau.
Camping l'Ile de l'Offard
Day 23 Friday August 8th 2014
Raining hard all day so went to visit chateaux. First went to Brissac, this is unfortunately when the camera ran out of charge!
We went on the tour (in French!) and it took an age...Then we went on to Montreuil Bellay
I wish it had looked as good as this but it was tipping with rain..pretty town though with a lovely patisserie where F and I bought a bag of multi coloured macarons and ate them all!
Then on to Breze
Then back to a wet and cold awning :( and into Saumur for a treat of pizza in a warm restaurant.
Day 24 Saturday 9th August 2014
Rain just about stopped in time to put tent away. Headed north to la Fleche, Tours, Le mans, Alencon, Bernay, Pont-Audemer. Found a site and decided not to put awning up. Another not very friendly site. Sometimes it is almost like they do not want your custom!
Camping Risle Seine les Etangs
Day 25 Sunday August 10th 2014
Today set off for Albert and the WW1 battlefields of the Somme. Yvetot, Neufchatel, Amiens, Albert, Thiepval.
Thiepval holds a special significance for the family as S's great uncle was killed in WW1 and his name is on the monument as he does not have a grave.
As it was raining again we decided it was too wet for camping out so we stayed at a Campanile hotel in Peronne. Went into the town to see if we could find are restaurant, but the town was deserted. There were lots of displays about the first world war though to commemorate the centenary year of its start 1914-2014
It was liberated by the Australians....
Day 26 Monday August 11th 2014
Left
Peronne and went to Albert, where we visited the Somme museum
http://www.musee-somme-1916.eu/index.php?lang=en
We were able to trace Great Uncle James' movements by looking at his regiments war diary, so Evangeline took us down some little lanes and through the small villages of Pucheville, Toutencourt, Varennes, Hedauville, Englehelmer, Mesnil, and Beaucourt sur Ancre. We ended at the British cemetery at Ancre where maybe he rests in peace.
Final trek north, Evangeline coughing and spluttering, to Arras, St Omer and finally Calais ready for the ferry home to Dover. Would she make it? Scary even with breakdown cover. Stayed in the Aire at Calais. Really windy and stormy
Day 27 Tuesday August 12th 2014
Still stormy, so a quick tour of the supermarche to purchase gifts and macarons for family and a visit to the pharmacy to get some anti sea sick pills for F!
Uneventful ferry trip - YAY! and after a few more hours driving home to a real bed and bath!!
All in all about 2,000 miles behind us!
In brief the towns we stayed in;
Forges les Eaux
Cosne cours sur loire
Massiac
Cavaillon
Gaillarde plage (Les Issambres)
Argeles sur mer
Quillan
Laguepie
Argentat
Saintes
Saumur
Peronne
Calais
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